Descend With(out) Caution: VanCity and Buckin' Hell Trail Race
Photography by Ty Holten
I showed up to Vancouver with a pair of muddy trail shoes, a hydration pack slightly sticky still from the Great Gu Incident of July 2019, and as many intentions as I could cram into my sister’s snowboarding duffle bag from the early 90’s. I use the word ‘intentions’, well, intentionally. I didn’t really have any concrete plans for this adventure, aside from showing up to a race I had been warned might leave me screaming obscenities (if I had any energy left to scream). And along the way, the trip bent and wobbled and curved; leading me towards people, places, and moments I will remember fondly. This is my new favorite way to travel, sans a concrete plan. Adventure, people…ad-ven-ture.
INFORMAL TABLE OF CONTENTS
I direct you to this informal Table of Contents.
If you are browsing through for race tips about Buckin’ Hell (produced by Gary Robbins & the Coast Mountain Series), go ahead and scroll to the bottom. BUT FIRST…hear me out. My articles and travel guides are ‘through composed.’ Each paragraph gently holding your hand and leading you effortlessly into the next. And pretty soon, you are across the finish line with a cold bev of your choice. Sounds so nice, right?
Now…….I have a confession. I did not spend my ENTIRE trip in Vancouver. In fact, upon landing at YVR, I got the hell outta dodge. Rented a car and drove a solid 4.5 hours east towards a town called Kelowna in BC. But that story is for another article. So let us begin at the rental car return garage in Vancouver. I meandered my way towards the SkyTrain platform (an incredibly convenient and fast means of transportation to get you from the airport to Downtown Vancouver. See schedules here).
Comfortable Elegance or trendy affordable
I have traveled to Vancouver BC on several occasions. I feel confident in my abilities to recommend areas and hotels that are surefire picks for athletes visiting the area. I will be featuring two of my FAVORITE places to stay in this guide: The Westin Grand and Hotel Belmont. These are spaces that I have toured, met with hotel staff, and personally vetted for their location, cost value, and athlete-specific amenities. As mentioned previously, I was in town this go-round for a trail 30k, but I have also stayed with the Westin Grand while traveling for IRONMAN Whistler 70.3 (and one larger than life bike case). You can check out that article here for more specifics about traveling for that triathlon.
The Westin Grand
Located in the heart of Downtown Vancouver, The Westin Grand is walking distance from many terrific restaurants, the Waterfront, Gastown, and other popular VanCity attractions. It is very simple to get around Downtown Van via the metro system. Vancouver City Centre Station is just a few blocks away. From airport to hotel entrance takes about 30min by hopping on the Canada Line at the airport and getting off at the station I just mentioned. Route info can be found here. There is a reason I keep coming back to this hotel. First and foremost the staff are real people who express honest and sincere interest in helping you during your stay. The hotel is stacked up quite high, and the elevator is a must if you are staying on the top floors. The year I came for IM Whistler 70.3, I had a MASSIVE bike case with me. This was a non issue as it rolled easily into the elevator, down the halls, and fit with room to spare in my suite. Traveling triathletes need options. We need pools, gyms, places to run, and places to stretch/relax. The Westin Grand is one of those rare spaces in an urban metropolis that has a pool, a jacuzzi, AND a phenomenal gym. No excuses to miss training (unless of course you opted to take a bike tour through the city from my last guide on Vancouver). Linked here.
intermission
My guides often have some dramatic personal anecdote. I swear I do not plan these. My life is honest to goodness TV drama series worthy sometimes. Maybe I am lucky because I am never bored. So here is my story to share: the day I arrived at Hotel Belmont was one hectic, exhausting, cluster f*** of drama. I was transferring from the Westin Grand over to Hotel Belmont (a destination that is actually walkable from the Westin Grand if you aren’t lugging your bike and a lot of luggage). After checking out of the Westin, I left my larger travel pack with the bellmen downstairs and set out on an early AM adventure. Destination: Victoria on Vancouver Island. I had some unfinished business there. With dry bag, wetsuit, goggles, swim cap, and a change of clothes in hand, I began the arduous travel process it takes to get to and from Victoria in a day. I caught the EARLIEST possible train that morning, headed for a connecting bus which would take me to the Tsawwassen Ferry Terminal. From here I caught a ferry bound for Swartz Bay, Victoria (a port that should be noted is at the TOP of Victoria).
Most attractions, hotels, restaurants, etc are located south of this point by a good 30-40min drive via Hwy 17. Hope and wish and pray and rain dance for someone with a car who can pick you up. If that just isn’t in the cards, then there are busses that run fairly often to take ferry passengers down to Victoria proper). Allow ample time to and from all of these connecting points. You might miss a ferry or a bus if there is traffic.
This day trip was important to me. It was a long travel day for only getting to spend a few hours on the island. But there was a chapter of my life that needed to be finished. And finished it was. You are probably thinking to yourself “Ok Katie, what is with this word dance? Just tell us what you were doing!” I can tell you this. If you read my guide about El Cruce, the open water race I participated in in Cancun, you will understand that this trip was a sequel to that. Much needed closure. But aside from the Dawnson’s Creek knock off plotline, I enjoyed a swim in Thetis Lake and a gentle trail run around the perimeter. Destinations are always better with a swim and a run. That’s my motto at least.
Hotel Belmont
It was dark by the time I arrived at Hotel Belmont. And honestly, this hotel shines in the dark. I previously labeled it as ‘trendy affordable.’ Picture this: a well-traveled, environmentally conscious, retro Canadian hipster on a budget. If that isn’t painting you a picture, let me highlight some much-loved quirks about this space just around the corner from the bustle on Granville Street in the heart of the Entertainment District.
Go play outside and recover inside - this hotel is designed around being a hotel you can feel comfortable coming back to after a day exploring DT Van and an evening experiencing all the things the Granville Entertainment District has to offer. Hotel Belmont’s website even labels it “Our hotel house party awaits!” I must confess, as someone who needs her beauty sleep, this made me a little nervous. But the bustle and flirtation with nightlife culture didn’t affect me when I decided to turn in. The rooms are pretty sound proof, with the majority of ruckus being contained on the bottom floor near the joined bar/restaurant/games hall that is accessible through the Hotel Belmont lobby. Check out those venues here! (I didn’t get to visit them myself but they looked really fun. Being a guest of the hotel also gets you discounts and specials on food & drinks there).
things to do in vancouver
First and foremost, my guide wouldn’t have been possible without the guide-ance (get it?!?) of Tourism Vancouver. I got to know this organization last year, and I am continually impressed by their knowledge, organization, and promotion of this wonderful city by the sea. With some recommendations in mind, I headed out to experience Vancouver in a very KATIE way. I don’t like to do typical touristy things. In fact, I really hate them. So please enjoy my top picks for fun, outdoorsy, and exploratory activities while you are visiting Vancouver.
lunch & be Buddha-Full
When I travel for races, I like to scope out some eateries ahead of time that are going to be GREAT choices for athletes. It was easy to fall in love with Buddha-Full. I visited the location off Dollarton Hwy in North Van (they have another location in Lower Lonsdale AND a rad mobile eatery they call the ‘Buddha-Bus’ that can be found all over Vancouver). I got to sit down with owners Geremie Voigt & Kyla Rawlins to ask them how Buddha-Full came to be. “We used to have donated church pews as seating in our original location.” Voigt and Rawlins created this hip, vegan-friendly haven from essentially nothing. The donations of the community and the passion they both poured into each work day from sun up to sun down. Buddha-Full was the first organic, raw vegan and gluten-free cafe on the North Shore, opening its doors for the first time in 2010. Now that is pretty cool.
From their colorful and fun food photography on social media to the thoughtful and welcoming decor of their actual eating spaces, I was sold even before the first forkful passed my lips. Check out my favorites below (or visit their full menu here).
Bohemian Soul Bowl
BOHEMIAN SOUL BOWL
lemon tahini + roasted yam + carrot + beet + chard + cashew queso + short grain brown rice + purple cabbage + sauerkraut
TOFUINO SALAD
diced kale + house made zesty peanut dressing + carrot shreds + organic smoked tofu + hemp hearts
Lobo Smoothie
LOBO SMOOTHIE
sprouted almond mylk + organic peanut butter + hemp protein + banana + dates
BUDDHA-FULL GRANOLA BOWL
gluten free oats + quinoa flakes + sunflower seeds + almonds + dried fruits + coconut + flax + chia + turmeric + ceylon cinnamon + maple syrup + banana + raspberries + mylk
GOLDEN AURA JUICE
orange + turmeric + carrot + black pepper + ginger
FREEDOM LATTE
espresso + coconut oil + hemp hearts (sugar-regulating)
Buddha-Full Granola Bowl
Golden Aura Juice
swim in the kitsilano saltwater pool
This is possibly the greatest pool in the entire world. I had been told from several Canadian athletes that if I didn’t swim in this pool at least once, I was going to be stripped of my swimmer card. Famous for being nearly 150yds long and filled with saltwater, the Kitsilano pool is a popular training spot for swimmers with its picturesque city views beside the ocean. As the pool is outdoors, make sure to get a swim in between the months of May and mid-September. More info on fees and hours here. I thoroughly enjoyed my swim here. The culture is unique in that there are no “lanes.” It is sort of one gigantic circle lane with swimmers of all speeds going at once. Trust me: this pool is long enough and wide enough where that was not a problem. Welcome that adventure. And flip turn with caution. Pro tip: just across the street is a cute cafe called Viva Fine Foods & Bakery where you can stop in for a post swim coffee and pastry.
Stroll gastown & Dine w/ PostMark Brewing
Photo by Sayde Burgers
If you have heard of Gastown before, you might be saying to yourself “well Katie, that is one touristy-a$$ spot. I thought you didn’t like those!” Fair statement. But allow me to explain: I actually think Gastown is really cool. At the time of the year I went particularly (late July, the weather was awesome and the nights have a lot of light). If you are interested in restaurants, shopping, and seeing the famous Steam Clock, this is the place for you. I crafted my experience in Gastown in a slightly different way. I used it as a means to get to my final destination. Walking the full stretch of this area took me about 30min from my hotel. I saw street performers, twinkling tree lights, people enjoying dinner in outdoor patio areas, and lots of life. It was one of the most pleasant walks I had had in a long time! But as I mentioned, I was enroute to a special place.
Postmark Brewing has been on my list of places to visit for a long time. Everything about their beer and branding is right up my alley. I heard through the grapevine that they had a really cool shared space with a local restaurant called the Belgard Kitchen, tucked away down a street off of East Hastings (see map). Unfortunately I wasn’t able to meet with the manager of the building or any of the Postmark founders but I learned a little bit chatting with one of the bartenders. Aside from a beautiful, rustic indoor space, there is much to be discovered on the menu. I had the Yam Gnocchi w/ Lamb Ragu recommended to me. I was not disappointed. I also opted for a flight of Postmark’s most delicious sounding summer selections. Check out those website I linked early for the rotating taps and seasonal dining menus. I HIGHLY recommend this place. I even left with a 6-pack of beer for the road (they sell a variety of their canned beers at the entrance).
cross the capilano suspension bridge
Ok so I lied again. I did something else SUPER DUPER touristy. And I learned that being too cool for school means you might miss out on some once in a lifetime experiences. I am really glad I didn’t miss out on this one. In fact, I dove in headfirst (yikes, not off the bridge) to learning about the rich history behind why this bridge exists. If you aren’t familiar with the Capilano Suspension Bridge, you are about to be LOL. I could tell you that Capilano (originally Kia’palano) is a First Nations name from the Squamish Nation that translates to ‘beautiful river.’ Or I could tell you that it is a cable wire suspension bridge located in North Vancouver that is visited by Canadians, international thrill-seekers, celebrities, and even entire sports teams since 1903 when it was converted over from cedar planks and rope. But what is really special about this bridge is that it is magically terrifying. Yes that is my dramatic adjective but find me someone who crosses that bridge and doesn’t feel a whoosh somewhere between their head and their feet. Thankfully due to its expert construction, the bridge is designed to sway and bounce as it supports the weight of the thousands who cross it each year. And I am happy to report that after inquiring with one of the tour guides on site, I learned that not one person has ever fallen off the bridge. This is one of those rare tourist attractions that is actually MORE fun with more people. All the different motions and jumps and speeds of the human traffic crossing the bridge makes for a fantastic shaking quivering bouncing adventure. I may or may not have held on to the side a few times……you know, just to inspect its durability…..
If you would like to check out this bridge, I suggest looking into what seasonal features they have happening around the time you visit. In November/December/January the Capilano Suspension Bridge Park hosts a Canyon Lights display, making a nighttime visit to the bridge a delightful winter whimsy. Full year schedule, fees, etc can be found HERE.
Buckin’ Hell
If you were one of those who just scrolled to the bottom to get this sweet sweet race recap, then w e l c o m e. You have arrived. Buckin’ Hell: a race to smash your face. Just kidding, but also there are a lot of opportunities to get slipped, dipped, and tripped. It makes it all the more exciting. Here we go.
Buckin’ Hell is a trail race in the Coastal Mountain Series, organized, founded and run by Gary Robbins & Geoff Langford of Ridgeline Events Inc. Located in the gorgeous vistas of northern Vancouver, this race starts and finishes beside the banks of Deep Cove (a secluded harbor surrounded by grassy fields, picnic areas, and quaint shops perfect for a day lounging and playing by the water). The race offers two distances (30k & 50k), a 2-person relay option for the 50k, as well as a 1k kids race! Fair warning: Canadians love their mountains and this race packs a punch. The 30k offers about 5500ft (1700m) of elevation gain and the 50k distance rings in at a whopping 8600ft (2600m) of gain! VERT IS SO FUCKING REAL. Ultrarunning Memes shut down so I can start leaking the secrets again.
parking, check-in & race briefing
When you ask your friend to take a picture of you, but he is racing too and kinda can’t be bothered…
Race morning was extremely laid back. I drove into the area with some friends about an hour before start time and parked in a nearby school parking lot. I do suggest getting there early because parking can be a bit of an issue. Just basically prepare to have to walk a ways to get to check-in. It has rained overnight and was still rather “moist” the morning of. This kept temps extremely favorable. The year before had some seriously warm miles (reaching into the 90sF in the afternoon). There is no way to know what your race year will be like, so prepare for anything! Packet pick up was hosted in a little park near some play structures. Very standard bag contents: bib, timing chip, stickers, a snack, and a beer glass. There is a post-race bag check for all distances and a drop-bag area for the 50k. Because the park and shorefront of Deep Cove is located in a high-brow residential area, the race asks participants to be respectful in the early hours and not cause too much ruckus while the beautiful people sleep. Gary Robbins gives a quick little race brief speech about 20-30min before the 50k gets lined up at the start line. Same process happens for the 30k. I saw my friend off for his 50k and then lined up for my own adventure. I will admit I was a LITTLE nervous for this race as it has such a reputation for being a real deep burn in your legs. Spoiler alert: I just loved every moment of that course and really had nothing to fear.
30k course
The first 2 miles or so are a solid UP of wooden steps and bridges that are quite common to this area in BC. I found the stairs cumbersome as they weren’t really built for my legs and stride. The lead athletes bounded up them like gazelles. Due to the rain and mist, they were also quite slick (something to be careful about if that is the conditions for your race day). PRO TIP: If you are an Altra lover like I am, be EXTRA careful in your Lone Peaks. The gater trap on the back will catch on these steps. That is a one way ticket to slippy trippy town. After the steps section, the course opens up into some of the most jaw-droppingly beautiful forest I have ever seen. Tall, lush trees. Soft, red mossy footing. It is an absolute dream. Slight ups here and a blazing downhill that is so fun because of the easy footing. One of the real perks of the Buckin Hell course is that nothing is quite the same twice. After this section, you will begin ascending on some legit mountain bike routes. The wooden ramps and planks are a dead giveaway. We saw a handful of cyclists who patiently waited for us to pass before they commenced their rides. This portion is STEEP. The whole thing is steep, but I remember finding this part particularly unforgiving. It does level out at parts. I was able to catch my breathe about 8-9 miles in. The aid stations are also set up at convenient places where you can pick up watermelon, M&M’s, pretzels, oreos, etc. I smuggled a few oreos for the road and dropped them like an idiot when I tripped on a root not too far thereafter LOL. THIS IS A CUPLESS RACE. Which is how all trail races should be now. Make sure to bring your own folding cup if you want to take anything besides water at the aid stations.
As you near the section of the course where the 50k continues on and the 30k splits off to the right, you will have been running on a paved road for a good half mile or so. Straight up. I saw people running this and high fives to them. I was TOAST at that point. In the 30k we only had a fraction of the race left to go. And it was all downhill (kind of). Once you turn off the road you descend some sensationally technical trail. Rocks, roots, oh my. You are basically in a waterfall. It goes on for quite some time. Eventually it lets up to some steep downhill running that has better footing (but is an absolute quad blaster). At this point I really opened up my legs and ran with most of the gas I had left. NOT SMART. The final mile is descending basically the course you started out on. VERY steep technical trail and then those GD steps LOL. Ouchie. At this point in the day there were a lot of hikers and tourists coming up the steps. I did my best to shout out “heads up” and be understanding when kids and older people took time to move over. Sprint into that finish line with the grace of Tommy Rivs and Kilian Jornet’s love child. I thought it was pretty cool that Gary was at the timing mat to put medals on every runner’s neck. The finish line area had pizza AND sushi. I took a victory soak in the cove and enjoyed one of the free massages they offered. Overall a fantastic race. Worth the money, worth the burn.
